Here is How to Build a Staircase
It is not easy to build stairs, even a short one is not simple .
This DIY Project requires accurate measurements and careful calculations.
From a technical point of view, it is not particularly difficult to build stairs for terraces, porches or shacks. Anyone with basic carpentry skills can make the necessary cutting and assembly parts. However, the construction of the stairs may be the most difficult task that DIY-ers will try.
Stairs must comply with strict building codes to ensure safety and climbing comfort. We are accustomed to uniform and professionally constructed stairs so that the slightest gap between steps can create a risk of falling. Big steps make climbing difficult.
The shallow steps are uncomfortable and dangerous. Since the space for errors is small, the construction of the stairs requires careful layout and can be difficult to calculate. Consult your Building Code Office first to get local guidelines. Then follow the steps described on these pages: Take the time to plan correctly.
Basic Anatomy of the Stairs
A typical staircase consists of three main sections: stringers, steps and risers. A smoother that is usually cut into 2 x 12 is a sloping plate that supports the other components and supports the weight of the person who goes down the stairs. They are usually 16 inches apart at the center. When determining the width of the stairs, remember that the wider it is, the better. Wide stairs are more comfortable and safer. I rarely build a person who is less than 4 feet wide, but prefers to be wider.
The tread forms the upper surface of each step and the riser is mounted directly below the front lip of each tread. According to many builders, some stairs have no risers, but this is a mistake. Risers protect exposed fibers from weathering streaks. Without a riser, the mast will break or separate much earlier.
Build Stairs Step 1: Calculate and Measure the ‘Rise and Run’
The first step in building a bridge staircase is to determine the total height or total vertical height that the stairs must cover. Place the bar on top of the deck, extend from the edge, and measure to the platform. Assume that the total increase is 57 inches. The next step is to find the rise of each step. Divide 57 by 7 inches (typical rise per step) to get 8,14. Turn step: eight. Then determine the actual increase by dividing 57 inches by 8 steps to get 7 1/8 inches per step.
You can use this information to find the general route of the stairs – or the horizontal distance uphill. Multiply the number of steps by the stroke or horizontal depth of each step. The optimal step for each step is no less than 10 cm, which is enough to accommodate two 2 x 6 pedals. In our example, the stairs have eight steps, so the total trip is 80 inches.
But there is an error in the calculation: if you are using a large terrace, it is best to break the stairs with a middle level. In practice, you can limit it to around 14 steps because you can reduce the number of channels by 2 x 12 16 feet. But I prefer to add a platform after seven to eight elevators.
Build Stairs Step 2: Cutting the Stringers
Before placing the steps at 2 x 12, determine how the rail will connect to the bridge. They are either attached directly to the rim joist so that the top step is aligned with the top of the deck or aligned with the frame below the deck, as we have done (see the drawing on the previous page). Once installed under the deck, the side members are either fixed to the joists or locked between the joists, and the ends of the side members are cut long enough to reach the frame.
The notch in the tread is marked using a frame bracket with steps. These small brass mounts are attached to the square and provide an accurate way to mark several identical notches. Connect the gauge directly to the square label until it climbs in size. Install another meter on the square body of the channel. Then place the square on 2 x 12, press the gauge against the edge of the board, and mark the tread and riser. Drag the square down to align it with the previously drawn groove and add the next one.
Cutting with Saw
Use a circular saw to cut the notch, taking care not to exceed the line. Use a jigsaw or a hand saw to complete the cut.
The bottom of the spar is then cut in an amount equal to the thickness of the tread. For example, if you are installing a 2 x 6 pedal, cut 1 1/2 inches from the bottom of the string. The first sludge was used as a template to mark the remaining sludge.
We screwed each spar to the deck mounting lock with the center of the lock 16 inches from the center. Once the spar is in place, check that each step is level and use the ground plane to eliminate the high point.
Build Stairs Step 3: Installation steps and lifting plate
Cut the risers to the required length and secure them to the stringers with 2 1/2 inches. Plate screw. Please note that we cut the riser and steps to hang the 1 1/4 inch side rail. After that, a 1 x 12 cedar trim panel will be nailed to the beam, which will make the stairs more perfect. This detail is not always necessary.
After installing the lifting plate, fix the steps with screws. Leave 1/8 to 1/4 inch. The space between the steps. Continue to climb the steps as you climb the stairs. The 4 x 4 columns used to support the railings are typically bolted to the stringers before the steps are installed. However, we first completed the stairs, then fixed the columns and built the handrails that the code usually needed.